Toronto Fashion Week

Five days of runways, street style, events, after parties, music, photographers, and a bustling city. The chic buzz of Toronto's World MasterCard Fashion Week was everything fabulous; something I am always more than happy to be a part of!

There is always a beautiful feeling of anticipation, as you walk toward David Pecault Square downtown Toronto; excited to walk through the photographer-filled court and the main entrance doors. Amazing street style and creativity is overflowing throughout the city streets; every photographer hoping to get the perfect shot. Everyone is in a heightened fashion-frenzy; eager to chat, mingle & for the runway to begin. 

This year's busy atmosphere inside the tents hosted an array of company's, products, drinks, food, & great conversation as you waited for the start of each show. Industry insiders, celebrities, designers, anyone and everyone with a love for fashion were in attendance.

(pic - runway / photo credit - Christianne Lucille)

The beautiful and anticipated FW16 collections were stunning this season. From Narces' spectacular evening wear, to Greta Constantine's rocker-chic elegance; here are some of this year's highlights from a unique Fall/Winter 2016.

Narces' evening collection was pure elegance and glamour. Both classic & modern; the stunning beadwork, sequins, lace and sheer details in Nikki Wirthensohn Yassemi's designs exuded a beautiful dreamy elegance.

(photo credit - George Pimentel)

Rock 'n roll energy and chic elegance ruled the runway during Greta Constantine's FW16 show. With thick smoky-eye donned models, Designers Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong created exciting vibes with their incredible metallics, tulle, and beautiful leather-molded bow & flower embellishments.

(photo credit - George Pimentel)

Mikhael Kale's cool and modern collection brought the runway to life. With beautiful attention to detail and an interesting mix of fabrics, from denim & leather to velvet & plastic; each look from this conceptual line was stunning.

(photo credit - George Pimentel)

"Winter Warriors" was the collection that had everyone wanting more. Set off-site at CBC's studio 40, igloo & icicle chandelier's set the stage for Mackage's magnificent FW16 collection. Eran Elfassy & Elisa Dahan's signature leather was set amongst warm plaids, layered wool, perfect quilting, beautiful silhouettes & always-cool modern style.

(photo credit - Nick Lee)

Sid Neigum's incredible designs are always a favorite; and his highly anticipated FW16 show was nothing short of outstanding. Taking a step off the conventional runway, models displayed this beautiful collection up-close-and-personal in a stand-still showing. Beautiful conceptual designs, textured fabrics, neutral palettes & sculptured silhouettes lit up the runway.

(photo credit - Christianne Lucille)

From the fashion-packed week of upbeat events and FW16 lines, here are some exciting and beautiful trends & notables from throughout this season's collections. 

(photo credit - all photos George Pimentel)

"metallic chic - shimmery silhouettes" 

 

 (designers from left to right - Christopher Paunil, Greta Constantine, Helder Diego, Neya Couture)

"cozy up with some fur" 

 

 (designers from left to right - Farley Chatto, Hilary MacMillan, Mackage, Sosken Studios X Marisa Minicucci )

"seeing red" 

(designers from left to right - Greta Constantine, Picadilly, Mackage, Jennifer Torosian)

  


"leather accents, strong cuts & 3d printed accessories"

            (designers from left to right - Greta Constantine, WRKDEPT, Helder Diego, Daniel Christian Tang)

"tulle graced this seasons runway in full-force"

 

(designers from left to right - David Dixon, Greta Constantine, Farley Chatto, UNTTLD)

 This insider review has been provided to the FFC by Christianne Lucille.

The perfect boho cardigan

"I've been looking for the perfect boho cardigan and I finally found one at Envy. I absolutely love this piece.  You can create so many different looks, from casual and cozy to full on bohemian festival queen.  For this look, I paired it with a long cotton tee, a statement necklace that any modern gypsy would love, black faux leather leggings, combat boots and a witchy hat.

I wanted the cardigan to be a main feature so wearing all black really helped it stand out."

-Trish Knox

Outfit details

Cardigan- Vera Moda (purchased at Envy)

Faux leather leggings- Joe Fresh

Combat boots and hat- Urban Planet

Long tee- Samuel and Co.

Bag- Winners

Necklace and rings- Shop Dixi, and old vintage finds

Soft Grunge

"As someone who grew up in the 90's, I have a deep connection with everything grunge.  The leather jackets, plaid, chunky boots, chokers, black lipstick, overalls... all of these things remind me of my childhood and early teen years.  This nostalgia is what inspired this look and many of my other outfit choices... usually with a dash of boho and a sprinkle of witchiness added in for good measure.

I also draw inspiration from other fashion bloggers that share a similar style.  Many come from Instagram and others from Pinterest. Ah, the benefits of social media." -Trish Knox

Outfit details
Over the Knee boots: Urban Planet
Boho jacket: Urban Planet
Basic tee: H&M
Shorts: Free People (purchased locally at Envy)
Fringe purse: Winners find from a few years ago.
Choker: handmade by me
Sunglasses: Urban Planet

Design first, sketch later

When you think of a fashion designer, an image that usually comes to mind is of a well dressed person sketching beautiful illustrations of their collections at a posh drafting table. At least that is the image that used to pop into my head when I thought of the term.

Upon entering the world of fashion design 6 years ago, I quickly discovered that my design process does not normally start with a sketch. I have learned that it is much easier to build things in my head rather then put it into detail on paper. This surprises me because I  grew up with a pencil and pad of paper grafted to my hands, I loved to draw so much!

So why am I not excited to draw it out first? And even if I do some sketches, why don't I feel confident to share them ahead of time? Well here are a few reasons why!

1. Fabricville may not have the supplies I need, or even worse, not even exist on the internet. If I am making up fantastical creations in my head, I need to know what I have to work with first. I still haven't completely learned from this. For example, the line I am working on right now, I wanted black chain for some garments I am making. I even sketched it that way, and not only could I not find it locally, but I had to settle for 'gunmetal'. Black chain doesn't exist apparently! (Though I know it does, but I can't find it!)

 2. I need to trouble shoot and know my fabrics before I can decide what can be done with it. I can't sketch fabric if I don't know its limits.

3. I change my mind waaaaay too much! I have it sketched out one way, but I will 9/10 end up doing a variation of what has been sketched in the first place.

The above sketch was mandatory so I could show the organizers of the NBCCD fashion show what I will be presenting on the runway in April. Since I sent them this sketch late January, details of the 1st,4th and 5th looks have already developed into something a bit different.


 4. Following up #3, I don't like to commit because it can lead to disappointment. I let the process weave out what is supposed to be! This keeps things a lot less stressful and I am not as hard on myself if my original thought doesn't work out.

  I will share a final sketch of the above when the products are all finished, and I am happy to say the line is about 60% finished! I struggled to even share those sketches because some of them feel inaccurate to me, but that is part of my own  process of fashion design.

Kayleigh Saad
President - Fredericton Fashion Council

Check out updates on my designs at
https://www.facebook.com/lunarofferings/

Spring Mix

Does it seem like winter just goes on and on?  Well, good news; spring is just around the corner and it’s the perfect time to start introducing a little spring into your wardrobe!   Here are a few of the many trends to help you get started.

Ruffles
Ruffles ruled the runways.   Ruffles are so sweet and feminine.  They soften any look and I think they can go with any style of outfit.  They are on dresses, shirts, pants and even shoes (Fendi went there and I loved it).
(Seen basically everywhere from Chanel to McQueen to Valentino!)

Marled Knits
You think, “knits for Spring?!  Nonsense!”  However, they are a great transition piece.  And let’s be honest, it’s still not very warm so a sweater is a good idea. With depth and texture, pair this stylish knit with denim or corduroy for a casual look or with a nice blazer for the office.  Key is to find a mid tone that transitions well from fall to spring.   (Seen at Michael Kors, Jason Wu, BCBG..etc)

Fringe
Fringe has been in for a few years now.  It’s one of those things that you either like it or you completely hate it.   My opinion is that a little fringe can go a long way.  With that in mind, go for a fringe accent to avoid looking too much like the early 90’s or a cowboy…unless you like that look…then go for it ;).  Fringe can be a detail on any article of clothing as well as accessories and shoes!  If you like the fringe look but are a bit shy to try it, start with something like earrings.   (Seen at DVF, Hugo Boss, Prabal Gurung…etc)

Lightweight denim
 Lightweight denim also rocked the runways.  A light denim shirt, dress or skirt is a great way to spring up your look and carry into summer.  Until then be sure to layer accordingly so you don’t freeze.  For instance, if you are wearing a denim dress, (or skirt) pair it with tights and a sweater or blazer (perhaps a marled knit?!!)  if it’s short sleeve.  If it’s sleeveless maybe wear a shirt underneath for an extra touch of personal style.  (Seen at Jil Sander Navy, Suno, Opening Ceremony…etc)

Suede
I know what you’re thinking…. hard to clean!  No worries, go for a faux suede look, it will have the same chic effect!   Looks great with denim or even an animal print if you want to bring out your wild side.  I would stay away from the afore mentioned fringe trend unless it’s a small detail, again, to avoid looking to much like a cowboy (but hey, its your style!) Think more of a 70’s suede look.  (Seen at Alberta Ferretti, Rebecca Minkoff..etc)

The half Moon bag
We cannot forget accessories!   This style of bag looks great and sits cozy under your arm.  Get it in an array of colours to match your mood or outfit. This is one of those styles that will last for years so go ahead and invest in a nice one ;) (Seen at Victoria Beckham, Michael Kors..etc) 

Plaid
Go big or go home! Not your average plaid or gingham.  This plaid is large and in charge!  A  monochromatic plaid looks nice and chic.   Just be sure to keep your look nicely balanced.  If you wear a plaid top, wear a solid colour bottom and if it’s a dress, solid accessories.  (Seen at Thakoon, Brooks Brothers, Wes Gordon…etc)

There are many other trends on the runway, but we’re just getting started.  No need to go all out just yet!  It’s just a small introduction to help transition your winter wardrobe.   That being said, can’t wait for summer to wear shorts because you love them?! Wear them now with some tights to keep warm and make sure the shorts are not too tight.  Something with a pleat (another spring trend) would be very nice, especially if wearing to the office.  Pair it with a blazer for a more professional look or a cute crop top for an evening out (don’t forget the sweater! ;).


Now,  lets talk shoes.  Booties are a great way to transition into spring.  They can also be worn during the summer (look great with shorts)  and then later, wear them into fall with some skinny pants/jeans.  Want to make them a little fun and on trend?  Get a pair with some fringe or dare I say, a ruffle!  

 The one thing to keep in mind when transitioning into a new season, have fun and be yourself!  That is the best part about style…everyone is different and unique!  It’s the best way to communicate who we are without saying a word. 


Adrienne Goodine
http://putabow.blogspot.ca/

Concept to Creation: The Importance of Patternmaking in Fashion Design

Have you ever looked at an item of clothing and thought “How did they do that!?” For most people I talk to, this isn’t often their first thought (or even a thought at all) when they see an intriguing piece of clothing. We often look at garments and admire the design and finishing details, but fail to acknowledge the skill and labour that went into turning the original design into something that can be sewn together and reproduced. This is the integral step of clothing production, on any scale, broadly defined as PATTERNMAKING.
                                         
                                               Bodice Pattern for Vintage-inspired Dress

                                                             Vintage-inspired Dress

 I think patternmaking is often neglected when talking about fashion because a lot of designers outsource this work to production companies. This is done because it is a skill that takes time to learn and requires constant re-evaluation and expansion of knowledge with each pattern made. It isn’t as creative and open as sketching and designing, and doesn’t have the accessibility to education like sewing does. Many people learn to sew as children or young adults, or at any age really, and there are plenty of resources available to learn from. When learning to sew, one often uses COMMERCIAL PATTERNS; these are pre made patterns adjusted to a variety of sizes and the sewer simply pins the pattern pieces to fabric, cuts, and voila!, they can sew the garment together (following instructions of course).

                                                       Collection of Designs in Progress

I like doing things my own way, making them unique to my perception of my space and the world around me. I love sketching clothing designs and hate copying someone elses idea or pattern, so I started making my own designs when I was in high school. I had no knowledge of pattern making and very little sewing experience, but I wanted one-of-a-kind items that I created myself. Along with a passion for fashion design, I have an uncanny love of math (I used to come home from middle school and do brainteaser math problems online … yeah), so I used various geometry principles and created my own “patterns”. These were not paper patterns, I simply worked out the math and drew on the fabric I was using. Surprisingly, these garments actually turned out okay! I even made my own (rather simple) prom dress. But 1) I could not recreate these garments easily as I did not have paper pattern pieces to trace and 2) I did not have the understanding of how to place darts, tucks etc. to contour the body effectively.
                      
                                                                       Corset Pattern

                                        

                                                                             Corset

                     


                                                                  Corset (interior)

So, years later I (finally!) decided to take on fashion design as a career, and enrolled in the New Brunswick College of Craft and Design’s fashion program (what an absolutely amazing school and program, by the way). This is where I learned the true skill, and if I may say, art, of drafting patterns and manipulating them: pattern making in all its capacity. What I had been missing in my years of experimenting was how to draft a BASIC BLOCK. This is the key to accounting for body contours and junctures. Using a prescribed method of plotting out points on a large piece of paper, a basic block is drafted for a specific body based on numerous measurements (bust waist, hips, and many more). Despite its name, the basic block is very oddly shaped, but is the first stage of drafting, upon which all designs will be based. Commercial designs use a “fit model” and base their patterns off of her/his measurements, adjusting the pattern proportionally for each size increment. Once a basic block pattern is completed to fit an individual or size run, the design elements are added! This is the most challenging step of the process, referred to as PATTERN MANIPULATION.
                  
                                                                     Bustier Bodysuit

                                   Bustier Bodysuit Pattern

Pattern manipulation requires practice, skill, and problem solving. The basic block pattern is altered in various ways (and there is always more than one way to achieve a result) but most manipulations include cutting, expanding, reducing, folding etc. the basic block. Each alteration from the original pattern is made based off of the design with the final stage of assembly in mind. For example: if a DESIGN has a gathered waist, the PATTERN will need to be expanded in that area, so once the pattern is traced and the fabric is cut, it will be gathered along this area and SEWN in place. For any design that is dreamed up, there is a way to manipulate a basic block to achieve the look. Sometimes what looks to be a simple design can actually create a very complex series of pattern pieces and vice versa. When I design garments, I always have the pattern manipulation and final construction in the back of my mind.
        
                                                                   Silk Teddy Design

Silk Teddy Pattern Manipulations

                                                   Silk Teddy Partially Assembled Back   

        

                                                         Silk Teddy Cut Pattern Pieces

I love the process of patternmaking because it is the bridge between my ideas and my productivity. It is the means by which I harness my passion for design and my need to problem-solve and create a channel unique to my train of thought through which I can produce, and reproduce, my art. Not all designers or artists work the same way (of course!!), but this process is essential to my work, and I hope this little chat has opened your eyes to the effort and skill sewn up in the clothes you wear. The next time you see a garment that really catches your eye, take a closer look at how it is assembled - all the pieces that fit together perfectly, skimming and hugging the body in all the right places: an idea snatched from thin air and flattened onto paper to produce a wearable, dynamic sculpture!


Michelle Duncan

Turn winter time drab into mid-winter FAB :Part deux

 Ok ladies now that we’ve covered boots let’s move over to the other most important and most worn wintertime essential- the winter coat. Putting a little extra thought into picking out your winter coat can help you looking fresh and trendy all winter long!
Since I was a little kid it has been engrained in me that all of my clothes seem to fall into one of two categories: nice ones and “around the house”.
Call me old fashion but this is the way I also approach my winter coats. I make sure at the beginning of each winter that I have one dressy wool coat, and one down filled or quilted jacket that is typically shorter and made with wind and water resistant material for those days with -40 wind chills and heavy snowfalls. I find if I am starting from scratch this is the best plan of attack to make sure all your needs will be covered for the upcoming winter.

Now keeping in mind that these are investment pieces for your wardrobe my immediate concerns are always the same: fit, seaming, length, and color. When I stand in front of a full length mirror it is easy for me to see that my silhouette is more a pear* shape where my waist is smaller than my hips. Because of this I gravitate more towards princess cut or ‘A’ cut long wool coats that will both effectively hide my thunder, and keep me looking classic. Ladies wintertime forces us to layer up enough, make sure you can still see your shape under all that! Now that I know what shape coat I am looking for it’s easier to start looking for contenders.

Winter coats are not usually the most exciting thing in our wardrobes but if purchased in the correct color, cut, and style they can quickly become the most complimented items in your wardrobe. We all remember that little trick I passed down from my last post on winter boats that you should never buy a pair of boots that don’t match at least three outfits? Well I actually take that one step further and have a tendency to purchase my winter boats specifically to match with my most frequently worn coats. That might seem difficult, but if you pick a neutral and stick to it (mine is black, some women prefer brown, taupe, etc.) then you can easily match trim and little details to make a more put together look.
Unfortunately the two coats that I will be featuring I purchased two years ago at Penningtons, so they are no longer available. However they are perfect examples of pieces I legitimately invested in to help develop my personal style and round out my wardrobe.

Now for the fun part! This coat featured above is my favorite and most used winter coat it features a wool shell with a silk lining, and zipper closure. Now this might just look like a nice coat but here are the mechanics behind why it works. The black faux leather trim runs vertically down the front- note that the trim is around the collar and over the zipper but nowhere else.

Faux leather is not are durable as real leather and even though it’s fun and adds texture to an outfit it doesn’t hold up as well as genuine leather. Having faux leather trim around low traffic areas that won’t be rubbing together or catching on anything will keep it looking new for longer. This faux leather also acts as a seamless transition from black trim to black boots, without looking too matchy you’ve invested in a piece that will flow into an existing outfit no problem.... Can we please take a second and think about this? You are always going to look put together because of this, and you didn’t have to think about it ever again?! Girls we have arrived.

The length is above the knee but covers my butt. Length is almost always an issue for me with any clothing because I am 5 foot 4 with short legs. A coat this length is perfect because when I wear knee high boots the bottom of the hem doesn’t cover them and that’s what you want.

I feel that seaming is so severely underrated so here’s my opportunity to let you ladies in on one of the world’s most neglected and most effective details. If you take a look at this jacket you’ll see under the arms there is some gorgeous seaming creating that hourglass look when I am wearing it. Always remember that rounded seaming is going to make you look slimmer! Not bigger. This kind of outward curved seaming is why I get up in the morning. Once you start buying clothes with this in mind then pieces will instantly look more tailored and the fit will be off the charts.

Now let’s talk color. My wardrobe consists mostly of white, light grey, dark grey and black in the winter time, however I know this to be a fact and knowledge is power. Since I love the versatility that comes with black items that seems to be my go-to shade that I base my outfits from. This rich dark green color was a big wild card at the time of purchase, but there is a method to my madness. This is the only forest green item I have in my closet, but because of that there’s nothing I put on that clashes with it. I keep my accessories simple but dynamic and introduce different colors and textures with scarves, headbands, hats, and mittens. Faux fur, faux leather, and big comfy scarves. I can change things up as much as I want too, because there is still that strip of black faux leather anchoring the outfit with the black boots keeping it looking streamlined. I have received more compliments on this coat than any other item in my wardrobe.

*I felt obligated to make a little note that I do not promote the use of fruit as a practical way of describing the shape of anyone’s body. And girls if you do go stand in front of a mirror make sure you’re evaluating your strengths- you have no weaknesses. You are a goddess and clothes are made to fit you- not the other way around. Love yourself and watch the world follow.

Thanks for tuning in! The weather is warming up beauties which means time for some color and fresh faces.

Fredtown Fashionista

 **Contact me! I’d love to hear from you for outfit submissions or any questions about my posts E-mail: fredtownfashionista@gmail.com,

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